Day 194 - 196: Guatamala
Leaving Tapachula behind, it was just 30 km to the border. When you arrive in Mexico, you’re given a little visa slip on a flimsy bit of paper. You have to keep this with you or you’ll be fined when leaving the country. This I knew, so I still had the piece of paper.
However, when you get this slip, you also have to pay a fee, which I did. But when I handed my passport and visa paper to the Mexican immigration officer, she asked for the receipt from that payment. From five months ago, that I no longer had. So she said I needed to repay the fee. Disappointed, and without the Spanish to argue, I went next door to the bank kiosk. I handed over my card, and the guy printed a receipt. No money came out of my account, so I assume he looked me up and confirmed I’d already paid.
I returned to the original lady, smugly holding the receipt and my visa slip. She examined it, then left her seat to go argue with the bank guy for a few minutes. When she returned, she stamped me out of Mexico.
The Guatemala side wasn’t much smoother. I went to a desk I wasn’t supposed to, was handed a form, and filled it out. The guy behind the counter couldn’t understand how my “vehicle” didn’t have a license plate, despite my attempts to mime a bicycle. So he scribbled me a note in Spanish saying there was no plate. This is a little weird, I thought.
Further along, I pulled into customs and showed them the note. They just laughed and told me I didn’t need to go through immigration at all if I was on a bike. They waved me through.
Then came the practicalities of a border town: figuring out an eSIM, finding an ATM, getting used to new money. In Mexico, I had a rough mental conversion. Just knock off the last digit and divide by two to get euros. In Guatemala, it was divide by 8, which took a bit of recalibration. I found a gas station-like place with an ATM. Went to order food afterward and noticed a guy hand in a bank card. Realized I had left mine in the machine. Thankfully, after showing ID, they returned it.
I’ve been to Guatemala and El Salvador before, and with the aim of reaching Panama City by the end of April, I’ve decided I am going to cycle quickly through Central America. And who am I to argue with an idiot?
So the next few days were marked by big mileage and little rest, mostly along the main road through Guatemala. It meant I had to reluctantly skip El Fuego, Lake Atitlán, and Antigua, though I’d seen them before.
The next day I did 12X km, covering a big chunk of Guatemala. So many people waving, beeping, saying hello. The people here are incredibly friendly.
Once I stopped outside a roadside restaurant and asked for a bottle of water. After I paid, the owner came out, handed back my money, and said it was on him.
Another time, I was having lunch and the couple at the next table asked for a photo with me.
I also rode through about 10+ km of backed-up traffic. Truck drivers were lounging in hammocks slung under their trucks or napping on cardboard in the shade by their vehciles. I figured it must be a really bad accident, but when I reached the front, it was a protest. People had blocked the road with tree branches and rocks while a man shouted into a loudspeaker.
That night, I had trouble finding a place to stay. Asked around at 3–4 spots but had no luck. Eventually, one hotel offered me a basic “emergency” room that they let me crash in.
The next day was a 130-odd km ride. I hadn’t planned on going so far but was feeling strong. When I reached the border, I decided to cross into El Salvador that night to get a full day of cycling the next day. The crossing was fast and painless, just a quick exit stamp, a quick entry stamp.
And just like that, I’m in El Salvador. I was in Guatemala for less than three days. I’d feel guilty if I hadn’t been here before as it’s a beautiful country. But these few days were filled with kindness, smiles, and countless waves from strangers.
Next up: El Salvador.
